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Sweetgreen presents the steak. What about his climate goals?
Nearly two decades after the founding of fast-casual salad chain Sweetgreen, the company announced Tuesday that it will introduce beef to its menu.According to Nicolas Jammet, founder of Sweetgreen, the addition of a caramelized garlic steak option comes at a time when many Americans are trying to increase their protein intake and also as Sweetgreen tries to attract more diner customers.The decision, however, leaves many questions about how the company, which has more than 225 locations, can achieve its goal of carbon neutrality by 2027, when beef production is a major factor in climate change. As the company's website states, "Not only do we have a human duty to do our part, but the business case for a great product that also protects the planet is clear."Mr. Jammet said the company waited to introduce the steak in part because it was difficult to prepare among other items in restaurants, but also because Sweetgreen wanted to be intentional about how it sourced its beef."We could have had steak earlier, but we started without it and our business did very well," Mr Jammet said.He added: "As more people eat more meat, we see this as an opportunity to go and really be a change agent and a catalyst in the supply chain."A company spokesman said the beef is pasture-raised primarily on farms in Australia and New Zealand that are "rooted in the principles of regenerative agriculture and selected for their high standards of animal welfare and gentle impact on the earth ».Part of the company's strategy to achieve carbon neutrality is the purchase of carbon offsets, the effectiveness of which is often difficult to assess.And although there is no official certification for regenerative agriculture, it generally uses techniques that maintain healthy soil and sequester carbon in plant roots and tissues. The carbon is then stored in the soil, which limits it from re-entering the atmosphere as carbon dioxide or methane, two factors that contribute to global warming.But experts disagree about how far this methodology goes toward creating sustainable beef.Beef makes up about 3 percent of calories in American diets, but accounts for about half of the country's agricultural land use and generates a significant amount of our greenhouse emissions, said Tim Searchinger, a senior researcher at Princeton University and a fellow at the World Resource Institute. As cows digest grass, copious amounts of methane, a greenhouse gas, also flow out."The bottom line is: Beef is very, very inefficient," Mr. Searchinger said. “And I'm not the only one talking about this. This is not a good move by Sweetgreen."He added: "A pound of beef from the best pasture on the planet is still far worse than a pound of chicken, let alone a pound of lentils."Although some ranches around the country have been using regeneration practices for decades and have seen benefits."A lot of the criticism is based on studies that are relatively short-term," said Hugh Aljoe, director of farms, outreach and partnerships at the Noble Research Institute, a nonprofit agricultural research organization. “Our ecosystem did not evolve in short studies of three to five years. Carbon flows in our environment'."We have to realize that we are only part of this earth for a short time," added Mr Aljoe. "It took centuries to build the natural ecology that appears in North America, and it's up to us to try to better understand how we can manage and implement our practices to have a more long-term, resilient — economically and ecologically — sustainable environment for future generations".
